Three days in the land of Lord Buddha

THERE IS no better place to understand Buddhism than in India. You may have read a lot of books on the subject, prayed and made merit at lots of temples, but none of those things could ever equate to a pilgrimage in India. This is because it is only after you have gone on one that you realise why the Lord Buddha became enlightened in India.

A friend of mine once used to tease me by saying: "Go to India if you are unhappy". Listening to him recount his experiences in India always had us giggling, but I was surprised to hear the same statement from a senior monk who led my group. However, his reasons were different.

"When you're here, you feel like a maharaja or maharani, because you learn to count your blessings when you see the poverty here," Phra Ratrattanarangsi, the founder of Wat Thai Kusinara Chalermraj in Bodh Gaya, told us.

Having pioneered the development of Thai temples in India more than two decades ago, the monk looks at life through his dharma filter. "To most people, beggars are a sign of poverty, but if you look at it from another angle, you realise that Indian people are so generous that they can tolerate begging."

Still, with us pilgrims often outnumbered by beggars, our tour guide always warned us: "Do not give any money. Walk straight and make no eye contact or you risk being followed by a crowd of beggars."

It sounded heartless at first, but believe me, experience taught us to strictly follow the rules.

DAY ONE

The minute our bus arrived in Bodh Gaya, we were not just surrounded by beggars, but also vendors and 'local' guides. The bunch must have been thinking, here come the maharajas and maharanis.

One vendor demanded "yi sib baht", while another young man, also speaking in Thai, said: "Come this way. Phra Ajarn is going this way."

So we followed our honourable tour leader in saffron robes, Phramaha Khomsorn Kuttadhammo, the deputy abbot of Wat Thai Kusinara. Those "volunteer" guides followed us all the way. "They are not my students, but they study Thai at the temple," the monk said.

Then we made our way to the Mahabodhi temple, a Unesco World Heritage Site where the tree under which Lord Buddha gained enlightenment is located. Though the entrance was hectic and noisy, sheer peace and quiet greeted us as soon as we stepped into the temple. There were scores of pilgrims praying and meditating by the Maha Bodhi tree, but our Phra Ajarn gave us the most enlightened advice: "Inhale and exhale nine times and offer your breath to the Lord Buddha. Breath is our most precious asset."

Thought of the day: Nothing matters except your breath.

DAY TWO

We marked the end of the Buddhist Lent by taking part in a Royal Kratin merit-making ceremony at the Thai temple. Once the rites were complete, we were greeted by a group of young students from a school that is supported by the temple.

The kids sat down and started saying silent prayers, while people dropped a Bt20 note or a Bt10 coin next to them. Looking at their condition, I realised why the Lord Buddha was determined to find an end to suffering.

Once the ceremony was completed, we paid our final respects to the Maha Bodhi tree before taking a flight to Varanasi. Luckily we didn't have to spend too much time at Varanasi Airport because had been warned about the world's shortest luggage carousel - it's only 5-metres long. When we made our way outside, we were embraced by the heat, the dust and the crowds, and realised that cows have the priority and cars always have to yield.

We managed to visit the Sarnath museum, where a lot of Buddha images seemed to be partially damaged by those who wish ill.

Still, we had a chance to witness some history and realise that Lord Buddha and his dharma live on.

Thought of the day: Life is like a road in Varanasi - though there are many obstacles, you reach your destination in the end.

DAY THREE

We rose early for a cruise down the river of Gods - the Ganges - with Phra Ajarn Khomsorn, who explained the religious significance of the river. People were having ritual baths and a body was about to be cremated on the shores. Surprisingly, I did not find Ganges as polluted as I had imagined. I was surprised that vendors were selling krathong that were completely natural - made from leaves and flour - while nobody used a motorboat to traverse the waters. However, the air was so polluted that only a river as sacred as the Ganges can survive such pollution.

Later in the afternoon we went to the Dhamekh Stupa to pray for His Majesty's health. As I was about to place some gold leaf on the stupa, I heard a woman chant: "May the King of Thailand be in good health and may he have all the happiness." I was nearly overcome by emotion.

Though His Majesty's image had been placed in front of the stupa, I realised that even without the photograph, the monarch will always have a special place in our hearts.

Thought of the day: Amazing Thailand, Incredible India.

When I arrived home, I felt grateful that there is an India - an India that gave us Buddha and gave me a chance to feel like a maharani.

The writer travelled with THAI for the Royal Krathin ceremony. Photos can be viewed at blog.nationmultimedia.com/veen