From deep space to deep Isaan

The economy can melt all it wants as far as Elle magazine's Thai edition is concerned - its 12th runway extravaganza kicked off on Thursday full-scale and fabulous, with terrific autumn-winter shows by Disaya and 27 Friday.

"We're suffering this year," admitted Kullawit Laosuksri, Elle's editor and the show's director. It was rough finding sponsors to raise the needed Bt10 million after perennial backers like Nokia and l'Oreal had to withdraw.

"Some designers quit at the last minute, too," Kullawit said, "but the show must go on!"

The magazine's nod to hard times took the form of replacing its usual spring-summer fashion week with "Elle Fashion for Life", a one-day clothes-and-music event that raised more than Bt2 million for people dealing with HIV.

Now, in high gear for a full four days, the fall session is called to order, beginning with Disaya Prakobsantisukh's surprisingly macho outfits, a rugged look to confront the economic bully instead of her signature feminine softness.

Disaya delved into childhood daydreams of space flight for her "Celestial Warrior" collection, a galactic treasure hunt across the heavens in black, aqua and navy-blue costumes studded with sequins and glossy buttons. There were her customary pastels, shocker pinks and mustard yellows to brighten up deep space, and black ankle-length gladiator boots and leather gloves ready to do battle.

And yet Chanachai Jareeyathana still managed to steal the show on opening day with his colourful casuals for 27 Friday.

The runway became an Isaan domestic scene in zinc sheeting as luk thung and ska music mingled, giving the models all the bounce they needed to show off charming duds made from checked pa khao ma and kid-patterned fabrics. For the men there were swim trunks and suits with short pants, and for the ladies, mini-dresses and maxi evening gowns.

The attire was adorned with vividly hued garlands of cloth, pa khao ma scarves and wild pink, orange and yellow sashes of the sort that normally wrap around shrines and sacred trees.

"Pa khao ma and the local wisdom that goes into making it are like eyebrows - close to the eyes," Chanachai observed. "I want to bring that wisdom back into fashion." His T-shirt bore the words "Thai" and "Sab" - which is Lao for "yummy".

"The local fashion market is really suffering right now," he added. "We have to look back at what we have, and support each other. Putting on a fashion show costs a lot money. I'm not sure, but this show might even be my last." Chanachai thinks the way to survive might be strictly retail.

Runway reality

Elle Fashion Week ends today with the shows "Runway to Real Way" by CentralWorld at 3pm, DEP's "Designers' Room: Now" at 4.30, Zenethorial at 6, Asava at 8 and Kloset Red Carpet at 9.

People with invitations get in first. Everyone else stands by hoping for tickets.

Lots more coverage coming up next week in Daily Xpress and The Nation.