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Dan Sai, an isolated district in Loei province, isn't the kind of place that attracts many tourists. Surrounded by rice paddies and cotton fields, you'll most likely find it if you make a wrong turn.

But next weekend Dan Sai is expecting to host some 20,000 tourists, as the small backwater district once again springs to life - or, more accurately death - transforming into a "ghost town" for the annual Phi Ta Khon Festival.

There, from June 26 to 28, thousands of rural folk will don spooky masks and costumes and roam the streets, teasing the children for fun.

The origins of this colourful festival have been lost to history, but many people point a finger to the Lord Buddha's for¬mer lives.

King Vessandorn, an incarnation of Buddha, relinquished his throne for a while to live like a hermit in the forest. His decision to later return to the court was cause for celebration, it's said, and the spirits of the woods joined the local people in dancing into town.

Scary costumes

On June 26, the eve of the cel¬ebration, the festival starts get¬ting to gear, as small gaggles of ghosts appear to tease the vil¬lagers on their way to invite Uppakhud Buddha from nearby Man River. The ghostly proces¬sion, accompanied by throngs of dancers and folk musicians, return to Wat Phonchai for the ritual ceremony. There, on the temple ground, visitors can horse around and watch as the locals don their scary costumes for the bigger parade in the next day.

The long-nosed masks are made from coconut husks and bamboo baskets once used as rice steamers. Scruffy trousers and shirts are ripped then painted in primary colours.

Many ghosts are decorated with small bells, usually borrowed from water buffaloes, so they jingle when they jump and tease the onlookers.

On the second day, the ghosts parade a Buddha image around, while monks chant the story of Buddha's reincarnation. Funny rather than scary, the grotesque procession draws laughter as the ghosts tease the crowds with huge red phallic sticks.

The procession is fuelled by live folk bands, beckoning everyone to dance along.

Phi Ta Khon Festival ends peacefully and spiritually on the third day when the villagers offers food and attend a sermon at the temple.

If you go …

>> Buses to Loei leave from Bangkok's Mor Chit terminal. Dan Sai is about 85 kilometres away from the provincial town.

>> Hotels fill up fast, so you might need to bring a sleeping bag and bunk down at Sri Phonchai temple.

>> On the Web: www.TAT.or.th/LoeiCenter