Shan delight

There's nothing fancy about Vivien House, but this homey, 30-seat

restaurant in the northern city of Chiang Rai is well worth seeking out

for home-made, tantalising Shan dishes and fanciful fusion creations.

Born to a Shan mother and Thai father, the restaurant's owner,

Vivienlay Wongwatcharadet -her name was inspired by actress Vivien

Leigh of "Gone with the Wind" fame - is proud to present the aromatic

dishes she's been enjoying since childhood.

Khao lueng gai oub (yellow sticky rice with Myanmar chicken curry),

priced at just Bt50, is a signature dish. The saffron shade of the rice

doesn't come from turmeric but from a local flower, whose name is pro¬

nounced liked the word "good".

"This tropical flower is widely cultivated in several parts of Shan

State and blooms from November to April. I have to order the dried

flowers from my relatives living in the border town of Tachilek, opposite

Mae Sai in Chiang Rai. Turmeric has quite a strong aroma but this

flower has a much lighter scent," says Vivienlay.

The rice must be soaked in the yellow water obtained from the dried

flower before steaming. Once cooked, golden brown-fried shallots and

salt are gently stirred in while in another pan, the chicken legs and

breast are lightly fried with a home-made curry paste that blends dried

chilli, potato, lemongrass, shallot and natto.

Vivienlay's sticky rice is tender and aromatic and goes perfectly with

chicken in curry that is not too strong and is as pleasantly sweet as mus¬

saman curry.

"Chiang Rai is a border town and the multi-culture is seen through its foods," says Vivienlay. "Take this yellow sticky rice, for example, it's an in-between dish that could be a mixture of Indian, Burmese and Shan cuisine. The appearance is like khao mok gai - saffron rice with chicken - but the taste is a bit similar to mussaman curry."

Another deep-fried dish that's popular with guests is made of milk curd sheets specially ordered from Kyaing Tong. First boiled, then dried in sheets, the squares are quickly dipped in hot oil and drained. They are crisp and golden, with a creamy taste and priced at Bt65. They can be enjoyed as savouries with a salt garnish or served as a dessert with condensed milk for dipping.

Other fusion dishes are created by her son Watchara, an engineering graduate of Chiang Mai University. For an appetiser, he recommends deep-fried spring rolls stuffed with cheese, salmon and spinach for Bt65. For those who like it hot, he suggests crisp-fried papaya in spicy salad priced at Bt80 or roti with pork curry for Bt65. The spicy eryngii mushroom salad (Bt80) is also terrific.

Among his East-meet-West creations are tuna steak with wasabi sauce and fettucini with tom kha gai - chicken in coconut milk.

Freshness and hygiene are guaranteed as Vivienlay is an official of the Public Health Ministry and in charge of promoting the "Clean Food: Good Taste" campaign among restaurants and food stalls in Chiang Rai.

She's also turned the second floor of her home-cum-restaurant into a B&B with six fan rooms that sleep 12. The cost is a very reasonable Bt280 per person including breakfast.

- The writer travelled to Chiang Rai courtesy of Mae Fah Luang University.

Vivien House is at 67 Sunkongnoi Road, Muang district of Chiang Rai. The restaurant is open daily from 10am to 9pm. Call (053) 714 978 or (081) 530 3245.