Amazing space

From the restaurant Clouds Loft, looking out on the sunset lighting Alila Chaam’s wide, open spaces.

Walk in and step back: Just about every guest arriving at the Alila Chaam resort will be struck by the space, scale but also privacy of the place.

Stepping onto the enormous white stairway leading to the openair reception, this guest felt she'd been magically shrunk to doll size. But such largescale surroundings have been cleverly arranged for maximum privacy. Famous for his spatial sense, architect/designer Duangrit Bunnag has wrought an interesting balance between the private and public spaces at Alila.

Next to the reception is the reflecting pool with a smooth silver surface that just begs to be broken - the design is often mistaken for a long swimming pool in pictures.

But no matter what it was designed for, the shiny ribbon of water works well to separate the two guest buildings. You needn't worry about meeting eyes from the other side, unless they've packed binoculars.

Hidden under the middle of the reflecting pool is the real thing. The Chill Pool offers a cool place to wallow and swim without caring about prying eyes. The stroll up to the far end of the reflecting pool leads to a restaurant where the food comes with a sea view and breezes.

Unlike some hotels that are stingy with their sea views, Alila is generous to all. The beachfront decking is devoted to a dozen or so beach loungers for sunbathing and doublebeds for relaxing, and though the high tide lapped up most of the beach during my stay, it didn't stop me from lying back to soak up the rays and fresh breezes.

Minimalism to many but merely simplicity to Duangrit, the design of uneven concrete walls and paving slabs may be too simple - some guests mistake it as an unfinished. There's no doubt about the rooms though, their spacious interiors lent extra loftiness by the high ceilings.

Find the bathroom and you and a special friend will have a great time discovering the space inside. It's not too difficult - just slide back the lockless door next to your bed, the only thing separating you from the bathroom. Inside is a wallfree space that combines hisandher sinks, closet, rainshower and bathtub. Only the toilet is kept private, behind a frosted screen.

The rainshower here comes close to its description. The deluge from the ceiling seems to have just two settings: heavy rain and cats and dogs. I enjoyed the sensation of being soaked as if I was under a real thundercloud.

But make sure you draw the curtains tight if your room happens to be next to the walkway, where treasured privacy gives way to glinting eyes. You'll probably have to keep them drawn if you want to retain your modesty in the bathroom.

The design details seem to extend to every corner of the room. No use looking for an ordinary light switch, buttons marked "vanity" or "intimate" give you a choice of lighting. But some details become impractical. The sink might be beautiful but it's too small to wash anything but your face in.

The hotel also offers a spa experience to pamper you from face to feet. After your introduction to the resort's relaxing charm at the pool behind the entrance, it's time for your body to meet the real destressing therapy. The signature treatment combines traditional Thai massage with oil. Loosen your joints by asking for a stronger Thaistyle touch, or keep things light for relaxation.

If you thirst after privacy, avoid weekends as they tend to flood with corporate groups, which means crowds and noise. But don't worry, they know when to turn down the volume, so aren't a nuisance.

From my room, deluxe terrace No 314 opposite the Chill Pool, I could hear every word of the songs being played at a poolside party. I was surprised as a party seemed strange in these surroundings, but luckily I wasn't in the room long to listen to it. Even luckier, the noise stopped abruptly at 10pm.

Actually, I had been informed on my arrival that an officebonding party almost a hundred strong had checked in the same day, but I'd seen so few people that it had slipped my mind. I saw more of the crowd the next morning at breakfast and by the outdoor pool.

That a group of 100 could disappear in the folds of Alila Chaam confirms that Duangrit has worked a kind of magic with the design dimensions of this resort.

AT A GLANCE

High point: Privacy and generous space

Low point: Hidden deep in the soi in the middle of a fishing village

Pay for it: Prices vary, depending on the booking channels. Internet rates start at Bt5,900 for a deluxe room, Bt6,800 for a deluxe terrace and Bt17,800 for a pool villa

Find it: 115 Moo 7 Tambol Bangkao, Chaam district, Petchaburi 76120

Book it: (02) 381 48234 and (032) 709 555.

Browse it: www.AlilaHotels.com/ChaAm/