A quest for quiet

Cheung Chau Island may be just 10 kilometres southwest of Hong Kong island but life here is so much more relaxed that is seems like a whole world away. For starters, the roads on this small, dumbbell-shaped island cannot accommodate cars, so the people walk or cycle. There is one main temple, one school and lots of

restaurants plus a big and beautifully clean beach to laze on and trails through the hills to the north and south to hike.

Hong Kong natives seeking peace and quiet come here a lot, especially at the weekend. The island is conveniently accessed by ferry from Hong Kong Central Pier, making it a popular vacation spot.

"Cheung Chau Island used to be a hippie hangout. It was a quiet fishing village and the people who came here wanted to forget their lives back in the city," says Vicky Loud, our guide in Hong Kong.

Loud, who was born in Thailand, moved to Hong Kong with her family several decades ago and has watched the island evolve.

"Today, Cheung Chau is a great place for a short break. There are some decent B&Bs, a pristine beach and all the facilities you need for a couple of days away from the city," she says.

Praya, the island's main street, caters to the tourists, with souvenir shops, seafood restaurants, convenience stores and kiosks that act as guesthouse outlets. It's okay to come on spec during the week, but if you're visiting on a weekend, book a room online before jumping on the ferry.

Visitors come in their droves in May for the famous Bun Festival, but another attraction is the quiet Tung Wan beach on the island's northern coast. Apparently sharks are also fond of this particular part of the sea but bathers needn't worry as there's a steel-netted swimming area with lifeguards both on the beach and in the water.

Windsurfers can get on their boards confident in the knowledge that Hong Kong's windsurfing celebrity and Olympic gold medallist Lee Lai-Shan, who was born and raised on the island, practiced at Cheung Chau's beach for the games back in 1996.

Seafood gourmets will be spoilt here and for those who like to cook at home, Cheung Chau is a wonderful place to shop for Hong Kong's famous dried seafood products - from sun-dried shrimp to fish maw as well as dried scallops, mussels and oysters.

You can taste the freshness of the sea at any of the seafood restaurants lining Praya Street. After dinner, walk away the calories with a stroll to the 200-year-old Pak Tai temple.

Also worth a visit is Lantau, Hong Kong's largest island, covering an area of more than 150 square kilometres not including the reclaimed land on which sit Hong Kong's Chek Lap Kok International Airport and Disneyland.

Formerly a sleepy fishing village, Lantau was one of the first few places in Hong Kong that saw foreign establishments. Now, even though the main town of Tung Chung is growing fast, Lantau still has several quiet corners for those who prefer being away from the madding crowd.

One of these is Tai-O, a small town that was once Hong Kong's main fishing port.

Today, the main bay is quiet, with only a few fishing boats bobbing around in the water, most of them belonging to the older generation.

Attempts are being made to preserve the tranquillity of this historical town and new generations of fishing families are renovating some of the old houses.

Tai-O is a must-see for anyone interested in Hong Kong's past, with houses on stilts lining both banks of the river and the mountain as a backdrop. We walk past a young man who invites us onto his back terrace for an eyeful of this sublime view.

"That's why I still live here and not in the crowded city," he says with a smile.

      if you go...

n Ferries run regularly between Hong Kong's Central Pier and Cheung Chau for HK$11-17 (Bt45-Bt70). Visit www.NWFF.com.hk.

n Guesthouses on Cheung Chau Island offer comfy rooms with great views. Visit www.BBCheungChau.com.hk.

n For eco-tours and natural kaleidoscope programmes, visit www.DiscoverHongKong.com/eng/attraction/nk/index.jhtml. The website has information on Tai-O and much more.