Monumental inspiration

WHITE-WASHED Wat Rong Khun. PHOTO/Watchara Saengsrisin

Thai Buddhists believe that building a temple is a great way to tam boon (make merit). But outspoken artist Chalermchai Kositpipat says that Wat Rong Khun, the temple he is creating in his hometown of Chiang Rai, is also simply great art.

"I once dreamt of bringing exquisite Thai arts to the West," says Chalermchai, who painted temple murals in the UK in the 1980s.

"But I found that people there didn't care much for the arts of a Third World country."

For more than a decade now, Chalermchai has poured his own money into building the  Bt200million temple in the far North.

"I want those who've ignored Thai arts to see it, and bow down before its splendour," he says with a smidgen of arrogance.

Approaching Wat Rong Khun, the first thing you see is the ubosot (consecrated assembly hall), its dazzling white representing the purity of Buddhism. Inside, there are two principal Buddha images and a backdrop of murals created by Chalermchai showing the path to nirvana through the Buddha's teaching.

Standing around the ubosot are beautiful Buddhist sculp¬tures. Look up to the roof and you see the forms of an elephant, naga, swan and lion, standing for the elements earth, water, wind and fire. They're covered with a mosaic of small mirrors to symbolise the universespanning sparkle of the Buddha's wisdom.

"The design is my own - it doesn't come from Rattanakosin or Sukhothai art," the artist explains.

The 53yearold artist plans to retire when he is 70. "I'll be dead before it's finished, but my apprentices will carry it through," he says.

XTRA

Take this path

Wat Rong Khun, Tambon Pa Or Don Chai is 13 kilometres south of Chiang Rai on Pha Yao-Mae Sai Highway Number 1.

Open daily, 6.30 to 6.

Chalermchai's Gallery, on the temple's grounds, is open 8 to 5.30 on weekdays, 8 to 6 on weekends and holidays.