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Published on April 26, 2008

The Four Seasons Bangkok opened in 1982 just as the City of Angles was celebrating its bicentennial. From Rajadamri Road there is little to distinguish it, but inside it's a temple of luxury and leisure.

The exterior white wall and blue-tile roofs represent both the quieter elements of Western culture and the peace of Buddhism. A replica antique bell graces the driveway, and twin sandstone elephants welcome guests.

Along the path between twin pools, you might briefly glimpse the peace of sunyata - nothingness - before entering the truly grand lobby. From the impressive columns and high ceiling to the regal staircase and huge wall mural, it reveals in architecture the hotel's approach to good living.

To accommodate its guests in 353 rooms and 34 suites, the Four Seasons has welded together two atriums - the wider, seven-storey Parichart Courtyard and the taller, nine-storey Monthathip Court.

Both are rectangular with corridors and room entrances facing onto a large interior tropical garden open to the sunlight.

 My room, one of the Executive Suites, is in the Parichart wing with a view of the 18-hole golf course at the Royal Bangkok Sport Club.

It's spacious and adorned with a king-size bed amid traditional yet luxurious design. There's a mural over the bed and silk pillows on it, and deployed around it are pedestal-style tables with Siamese motifs in antique gilded lacquer. And the bedroom has an impressive 42-inch plasma TV with a DVD player too.

The large living room is ideal for entertaining or hosting small parties. It's equipped with three dual-line telephones with multi-language voice mail, high-speed Internet and an MP3 player.

The bathroom is roomy as well, with a marble and granite finish. A walk-in cabinet holds a safe-deposit box.

Overall, the suite is lovely with its graceful layout and decoration. I could complain about the wi-fi connection being a little slow, but then the hotel's restaurants are too distracting anyway.

The Four Seasons has quite a choice. For Thai cuisine, the Spice Market is second to none with its simple yet elegant dishes. For a sensational cut of steak you need a table at the Madison, where chef Anchalee Ponrungsit is in charge.

Fans of sushi head to Shintaro, and specialists in spaghetti choose Biscotti in the Monthathip Court.

My favourite place, though, is the Aqua - a garden bar with no particular cuisine but a wonderful atmosphere conducive to friendship around the table. Expatriates, businessmen and beautiful people wind down with a glass of champagne or a martini and play a round of gossip.

On Sunday you'll love the Aqua even more, when it proffers brunch with wine from noon to 3.

Guests work it all off 24 hours a day at the Health Club, which boasts advanced exercise gear, a steam bath, Jacuzzi and yoga sessions. MSpa on the second floor provides holistic retreats for Bt1,000 an hour.

With an inviting, cosmopolitan atmosphere and friendly staff, the Four Seasons is a terrific destination for both travellers and the residents who stop in between the office and home and consider it an essential part of their daily routine.

      at a glance

High points: Luxury and good taste throughout, the surprise of the tropical garden within solid walls, the close proximity to shopping and the business district

Low point: That slow Internet connection

Find it: Rajadamri Road, a short walk from the Rajadamri Skytrain station

Pay for it: Prices start at Bt10,000 per night for a Superior Room, rising to Bt79,000 for the Rajadamri Suite. Go for the "Bed & Breakfast" promotion, with Deluxe rooms starting at Bt10,350 for weekdays and Bt7,650 on weekends.

Phone it: (02) 250 1000

Browse it: www.FourSeasons.com/bangkok.