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Published on April 12, 2008

Songkran is derived from the Sanskrit word sankranti and essentially means "to progress".

Yet ask any older citizen of Thailand what they think about the Thai New Year festival and progress is probably the last thing on their mind. Where Songkran was once a gentle Buddhist/Animist ceremony designed to husband the progression of time, today it brings to mind a very similar word in Thai: songkram, meaning "full-scale warfare".

Unfortunately, the apocalyptic water-throwing melee that has come to hallmark Thailand's biggest holiday is the only aspect that most participants get to witness, as its more symbolic and poignant facets tend to get submerged under an ocean of ice-water and talcum powder.

Of course, when placed beside the wet and wild frivolity, some find it hard to get excited about slow-moving religious ceremonies, sand-pagoda building and elaborate beauty pageants. Yet Songkran is more than the sum of its projectiles.

Aside from the higher-profile hullabaloo, Songkran boasts a rich assortment of somewhat drier diversions. One of the most important Songkran traditions is the lustral application of scented water to the hands of elders, monks, and even statues of the Buddha. This was in fact the original purpose of the water in the festival. More than just providing a cooling respite from hot season heat, this served the symbolic function of "washing away" the sins and grievances of the previous year. Similar New Year attitudes can be found all over the world - from the Chinese sweeping spirits from their houses to the Jewish eight days of penitence, to the Western New Year's resolution. As the definition of Songkran suggests, the New Year is a time to effectively "progress" into the future, but at the same time keep alive the traditions of the past. And so while Thailand readies itself for things to come, it also assiduously tethers itself to its cultural ancestry.

This in mind, colourful Buddhist merit-making rituals abound during Songkran: Lay people visit their temples and present gifts to the monks - mostly food, toiletries and new clothing. Outsiders are welcome to witness temple festivities, provided they dress and behave politely: Water throwing is not allowed on temple grounds! Of particular interest within temple compounds is the fashioning of sand pagodas decorated with flowers and paper streamers, which, when levelled afterwards raise the temple ground slightly. Generally, anyone can join in, provided they supply their own sand.

Another merit-making practice common during Songkran is the freeing of caged birds into the sky and fish trapped by drought into rivers. Of course, people themselves have caught the birds so it's hard to see how this improves the overall balance of karma, but at least the fish are probably grateful.

Perhaps most enjoyable of all, many large cities in Thailand host world-class festivals during Songkran, with events taking place after sunset when the water throwing ceases. Invoking tradition, there tends to be a special emphasis on old-fashioned music, food and festivities at these fairs. Chiang Mai and Phra Pradaeng (in Samut Prakan province) are especially enthusiastic in their observance of Songkran traditions and put on annual fetes that make even boisterous Bangkok seem tepid in comparison. These celebrations invariably include plenty of live music, an assortment of beauty pageants, cuisine and libation of every type and, with the standard curfews often overlooked, giving rare opportunities to party until dawn.

Of course, everyone needs to let off some steam once in a while, and in Songkran's case, the collision of sweltering heat and buckets of water makes it easy to do so quite literally. Those keen to stay serene and dry would do well to wile the days away indoors and wait for the evening activities - many locals and long-term expats, feeling as if they've heard the same joke far too many times, do just that.

But for those visiting Thailand for the first time, as well as veterans who still find it amusing, there's really no excuse not to grin, bear it, and descend into collective lunacy.

At the very least the "biggest water fight in the world" provides a good way to wash away your sweat, get a little exercise, and make some new friends. What's wrong with a little April foolishness, after all? Especially when you're already crazy from the heat and in the midst of 60 million revellers who just can't wait to help cool you off.

Oliver Benjamin, Supatranuch Singhanuwananon

Special to the Nation

      the best places to celebrate

Bangkok

Nine grand temples on Rattakosin Island, among them Wat Pho and Wat Bowonniwet, are holding ceremonies for merit making and bathing Buddha images to mark the New Year. Wat Arun (the Temple of the Dawn) launches it celebrations this evening with a cultural showcase and traditional food stalls.

For wild water fights, there's no place like the Khao San Road. Armed with water pistols and buckets of powder, thousands of fun-lovers will be roaming the street tomorrow through Tuesday giving everyone a good soaking.

Ayutthaya

Ayutthaya, Siam's old capital and a World Heritage Site, celebrates with a parade and great fanfare from tomorrow through Tuesday. Best places to hang out are Wiharn Phra Mongkhon Bophit, the historical park, and in and around the island. The grand procession of Buddhas, Songkran beauty queens and elephants takes place tomorrow along the city's main road.

Samut Prakan

The old Mon neighbourhood of Phra Pradaeng keeps the best for last, celebrating Songkran in a three-day event that kicks off on April 18. Expect traditional Mon games, great food and folk arts.

Chon Buri

The celebrations take place at various venues this weekend and next, with Bang Saen and Pattaya serving up the most fun over the weekend of April 18-20. Bang Saen tends to be more family-oriented with ritual ceremonies, games and a sandcastle showcase along the beach. Pattaya is wilder, with young people brandishing double-barrelled water pistols and buckets of water.

Chiang Mai

Chiang Mai is considered the most exciting place to celebrate Songkran. The New Year begins in the temples with a gentle sprinkling of water and a light dusting on the cheeks with fragrant paste. Things get wilder in the afternoon when throngs of fun lovers head out to the moats. The festival culminates at night with lively dancing at Thapae Gate.

Khon Kaen

Isaan folk mark the Thai New Year with the Dok Khun Siang Khaen Festival, which kicks off tomorrow and runs through Tuesday all over town. Catch the procession of floral floats decorated with dok khun, Khon Kaen's native flower, as it winds journey through the streets from 10am Tuesday, and enjoy Isaan food, contests, cultural performances and folk music. For the best water fights, head to Si Chan Road.

Phuket

Phuket has been celebrating Songkran since Thursday with anointing of Buddha images and cultural performance along Patong's beach road. The big party takes place on Monday with an all-nighter along Soi Bang La.