Ornate as a butterfly's wing

Born teetering on the cusp between Pisces and Aries, Aem-i Leelas is a bundle of contrasts - compassion and dreaminess fused with assertive individualism. That helps explain how a tomboyish eccentric in an old T-shirt and shorts can come up with breathtakingly exquisite jewellery art.

Her work is meticulous, graceful and feminine, the perfect match for elegant outfits. Its uniqueness lies in its combination of ornate crochet needlework and tatted beads and gems.

Her chokers, necklaces, bracelets, rings, earrings and pendants - which also incorporate imported gold thread and leather - range from the chic and excessive to the wild and weird, and prices leap accordingly, anywhere from Bt1,000 to Bt100,000.

Aem-i doesn't have a shop, instead working out of her small Bangkok apartment.

"I think I was born to live modestly in a small place, making small but beautiful things," the 48-year-old says. "It's not a big money-making job, but I'm happy to be managing my own life."

Word of mouth can never be underestimated, however, and the orders pour in, mostly from high society. Among her clients are Srivara Issara, Jeeranooch Bhirompakdee, Jantana Pangputhipong, Sujettana Sotthibandhu, Paveena Viriyaprapaikit and Duangrutai Hutson.

Silapakorn University named Aem-i Designer of the Year in 2005 and prestige jewellery firm Lotus Arts de Vivre has commissioned an exclusive collection. Her work has appeared in magazines like Dichan and Praew.

Aem-i's inspiration comes from floral forms, hibiscus pollen, wedding gowns and the butterfly.

"I've never worked from sketches," she says. "I just crochet and tat according to my imagination. I learn by doing, and the unusual patterns come almost accidentally."

Aem-i didn't originally go in for art, instead graduating in law at Ramkhamhaeng University. She was an attorney for six years, then briefly, in turn, a newspaper reporter, on the staff of a non-governmental organisation and a corporate secretary.

But the jobs were all too serious and confining for her, while her pleasure clearly lay in art. So she chucked it all in 1997 and took courses in drawing and photography at the Sarapadchang Sri Phya School, batik in a Bangkok Metropolitan Administrative programme, tailoring at Chotivej School and interior and graphic design at Alliance Française.

Jewellery design joined her burgeoning skills that same year when a friend asked her to help design a textile firm's catalogue of new fabrics. It was Aem-i's brilliant idea to present the fabrics in a crochet pattern with beads. A new career was born.

In 2002 she met acclaimed fashion designer Somchai Kaewthong, and he commissioned several series that were sold at his Kai Boutiques in Bangkok's Times Square and the Oriental Hotel. It was Somchai who recommended her to Lotus Arts de Vivre.

"He said my work wasn't decorative - it was art," recalls Aem-i.

She's now moved on to home-decor items, crocheting bases for flower holders and cutting freeform leather place mats.

"My ultimate dream is to have my own gallery where I can keep all my work for study purposes," she says.

"If there are any millionaires who'd like to back me up on this, please don't hesitate to call!"

Millionaires can reach her at (084) 111 7532.  

 Khetsirin Pholdhampalit

The Nation