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It's been a while since I was last in Hua Hin. It seems that each time I visit, though, I eat at the same old places I've already written about. Don't get me wrong, I've never been disappointed by my old haunts, but I do feel a little guilty for not presenting readers with new ones. So this weekend I've hunted out a place a little farther afield - in Cha-am, which is 20 kilometres up the coast from Hua Hin town.

Sang Wean Seafood is right on the beach and if you don't mind going a little rustic, the food here is great. A bonus is that it's not as expensive as more touristy Hua Hin. You eat on the sand at long tables with wooden benches - there are no individual tables here, so it's a communal affair. I visited during the day, so I don't know if they spruce up the seating arrangements at night!

I loved it. There are no tablecloths, but it's clean, with cutlery that's sparkling and more substantial than the bendable tin you find elsewhere. And the waiters and waitresses are attentive, quick to offer suggestions of the best dishes.

This is unfussy local cuisine at its best - typical Thai seafood. First stop for any visitor should be the deep-fried whole fish. Their name for it is pla tod nam pla, literally "fish fried in fish sauce" - not an accurate description. What they actually do is fry the fish in oil, which is then used to make a sauce. This is poured over the fish before serving to complete a tasty dish. They do it very well, taking care so as not to overcook the  fish.

Diners will also find a Northeastern dish here that's a fixture at Thai restaurants wherever you are - som tam, or papaya salad.  But at Sang Wean Seafood they do papaya salad a little differently. Freshly poached shrimp is added followed by a dressing that's not too spicy - perhaps in consideration for the delicate palates of Bangkok visitors. What they didn't know was that I like my som tam authentically spicy hot, sour and salty. They also add fresh, raw blue crab, which deserves a word of caution: Those without a cast-iron stomach might want to avoid this item! 

Maybe the stir-fried catfish with chilli, garlic and fresh peppercorns would be a better option for the less adventurous. It's not as spicy as the som tam, but just as delicious with a plate of steamed rice. Then there's the sour curry, something I always eat with a Thai omelette. The omelette, I find, gives a richness and balance to a mouthful of rice and curry. 

As well as Northeastern dishes, there's a speciality on the menu that anyone who wants a taste of the South should try. The sator is a green bean grown in the South, here combined with shrimp for a stir-fry.  The vegetable is crispy and nutty but some Thais find it too pungent. Personally, I think it's like eating really good sweet, nutty peas.

A Thai meal wouldn't be complete without an order of stir-fried vegetables. We opted for the stir-fry Chinese kale with salted fish, which is a favourite of mine at any restaurant. The quality of the salted fish is what determines how good this dish is. Here it's like eating a warm salad with anchovy dressing - bursting with flavours.

Don't expect any great desserts at Sang Wean - this is the beach, after all. All they have to offer is local fruits and ice cream from the icebox, so have a main meal then go elsewhere for dessert. Don't miss out though - the atmosphere and the savoury fare is sufficient reason to make the trip.