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Published on February 10, 2008

"Thai food is healthful anyway," says executive chef Gael Lardiere. "We've simply eliminated the coconut and other kinds of fat, just to show people that you can eat healthy and still feel full at the end of the meal."

Born in Brittany, Lardiere received his culinary education in Alsace. His experience has been international, from cruise ships to hotels in China.

Sous chef Charoensri Vutanayut brings with her 24 years of experience, nearly all with the Royal Orchid. She's among the longest-serving staff members at the hotel, having joined when it opened.

The two have created quite a tasty - and charming - menu to promote healthy Thai food. Charoensri has a deft wrist, and her yam and other sour dishes are a delight, such as her yum song rod - steamed seabass flavoured with sugarcane juice (Bt250), which is served with a straw mushroom salad - and her nua yang with som tam (Bt450).

The som tam has a "Western" twist: Along with the shredded green papaya are chunks of green apple, adding a sweet and sour taste of their own.

For her kung phad nam pla wan (Bt350), Charoensri seasons the sauce with tamarind and crispy shallots. If you're a "sauce person" you'll enjoy this dish.

With its very traditional Thai interior accented with delicate teakwood carvings, Thara Thong offers a very traditional menu of royal Thai cuisine, with dishes that can satisfy the cravings of Thais and foreigners alike.

If you're not looking for healthful food, you can enjoy a full range of Thai dishes that feature coconut milk, such as the tom kha gai sai kalum plee (Bt260) - chicken and cabbage soup with coconut milk.

There's also a section of vegetarian dishes, or, if you're looking for a light lunch, you can check out the section of stir-fried dishes.

But don't miss Thara Thong's Healthy Food Promotion, which lasts only until the end of February.

Laurie Rosenthal

The Nation