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Published on February 2, 2008

The first man who made concrete was a hero in his day: Here was something with which to make buildings that would last a long, long time. We can still thank him - it's just that we also miss the days when every building in Thailand was made of wood.

Skyscrapers and cinderblock shophouses have their time and place. Wooden architecture is timeless, and always has a place in our hearts. We still prefer to slumber on lumber in the breeze through the trees, even in the big city. Here are five outstanding examples of venerable wooden structures among the temples of Bangkok, each one further exalted by superb craftsmanship.

The library at Wat Saket

on Damrongrak Road

Wat Saket on the Golden Mount is a genuine landmark among Thailand's best-known temples, its gilded chedi rising to a splendid view across historic Rattanakosin. But the mystic allure of the place doesn't all reside at the summit of the steep path.

Right at the roadside opposite the entrance is the temple's small wooden library - the hor-tri - more than two centuries old. It's stood there since King Yodfa, the first of the Chakri Ramas, founded Bangkok in 1782.

The library is cherished as one of the country's finest surviving examples of Ayutthaya architecture, and boasts strong Chinese influences as well.

The outer walls have golden arches and wood panelling, and the inner ones bear murals that record the history of the surrounding Chinese neighbourhood, complete with a noblewoman, an opera scene and a sailing junk.

Next to the library is a monk's residence built with timber from King Yodfa's house, and inside that more fine old paintings on the panels.

WOOD TRAIL: The temple is on Damrongrak Road, a short walk from the Phan Fa Bridge on Rajadamnoen Nok Avenue.

The golden pagoda on its high knoll is easy to spot.

The library at Wat Apsornsawan on

Therd Thai Road

Across the river from Bangkok proper in Thonburi is Wat Apsornsawan, whose date of construction has been lost to history, though major restoration took place during the reign of King Rama III. Here again the neighbourhood was traditionally Chinese and the temple's architecture reflects this - except for the library.

Standing on stilts over a pond, the library's tiered roof, gables and sloping finials pay homage to Ayutthaya. The walls are decorated with the shards of mirrors, and the two guardian angels adorning the small doors have fine golden lacquerwork.

The structure is in bad condition, however, seemingly ready to fall apart whenever the wind blows. All the more reason to visit soon, before it's reduced to a pile of debris.

WOOD TRAIL: Take Bus No 4, 9, 10 or 103 or a long-tailed boat to the Wat Paknam Pasichareon Pier, and Apsornsawan Temple is a short walk from there.

The Golden Pavilion at

Wat Sai on Ekkachai Road

Three centuries ago Phra Chao Sua, a king of Ayutthaya, used this pavilion as an overnight residence on his travels. It's quite spartan, certainly when compared to the luxury usually acquainted with

royalty.

The Sanamchia Canal alongside it connects the Chao Phya and Tha Chin rivers, which formed a route to the Gulf of Siam in the early 18th century. Phra Chao Sua, a keen traveller, slept at the pavilion on his way to the sea.

The interior walls and roof structures are covered with paintings and the door of the bedchamber has depictions of guardian spirits. The exterior walls are lovely with lacquer and gold wash. The window panels feature mosaics of green and white glass.

The golden pavilion is a rare survivor of its time and begs for a visit.

WOOD TRAIL: Take Bus No 10, 43 or 120 or hire a long-tailed boat at the Rajinee Pier for a cruise along the Chao Phya River.

The Preaching Hall at Wat Rajaworavihara on Samsen Road Soi 9

Idyllically serene in its green surroundings, Wat Rajaworavihara is the centre of Dhammayuttika Buddhism study for the conservative "forest monks", and in the midst of the leafy trees and garden is a huge preaching hall made entirely of golden teak.

Erected by the great artist Prince Naris, who also left his mark on Bangkok's Marble Temple, the structure has tall wooden columns made from trees transported along the Chao Phya from northern Phichit province.

Each column is named after a character from the writings of Khunchang Khunphaen.

With its whitewashed walls, fine craftsmanship in the window frames and enough room for 1,000 people, this is one of the country's biggest and most beautiful preaching halls.

WOOD TRAIL: Take Bus No 3, 16, 19, 30, 33, 59, 64 or 65 or one of the Chao Phya boats from Sathorn Bridge to the Thewet Pier. The temple is about a 10-minute walk from there.

The Meeting Hall at Wat Kaew Phaitoon on Ekkachai Road Soi 14

On Bang Pratun Canal in a Thonburi suburb, Wat Kaew Phaitoon was built in the mid-17th century, when Ayutthaya was still in its golden age.

Rickety but remarkable nevertheless, the congregation hall is made entirely of teak, and the walls are the pride of Ayutthayan craftsmanship - hundreds of carved panels that together tell the tales of the epic Jataka.

Also in the hall are two venerable seats with ornate canopies, from which the leading monks would preach.

WOOD TRAIL: Hire a long-tailed boat at the Rajinee Pier for the short jaunt on the Chao Phya River.

Phoowadon Duangmee

The Nation