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Published on December 15, 2007

For almost six years they had suffered a twisting detour through chaotic road works, until November, when the long-awaited underpass was suddenly opened without fanfare.

Further down the road, the equally notorious San Dek underpass had met with similar delays caused by financial constraints blamed on increased fuel and construction costs as well as cash-flow problems.

But the official opening of both structures could signify a light at the end of the tunnel - a corner turned from the general decline of Thailand's Rose of the North.

For more than a decade, Chiang Mai's image has eroded from a city of beauty to one of unfinished projects, bad workmanship and pollution. Last summer, the skies in the province filled with smoke from slash-and-burn farming and motor-vehicle emission - putting paid to an expected tourism pay-out over the Songkran period.

This has prompted the city's administration to take measures in avoiding a repeat situation. The newly appointed mayor has declared that air pollution will be reduced by creating green zones and bicycle lanes and launching an energy campaign to promote natural gas for vehicles.

Moreover, the Chiang Mai municipal and provincial police are planning to control vehicle emissions; and because government warnings on burning rubbish have been largely disregarded, a team of district chiefs, village headmen, and the president of the sub-district Administrative Organisation has been assigned to educate rural folk on the dangers of lighting bonfires.

New broom sweeps clean

Shortly after Capt Duentemduang na Chiangmai took office as Chiang Mai's mayor, she set an example by grabbing a broom and joining other officials, environmentalists, students, police and military personnel in sweeping 2,000 bags of garbage off the city streets.

She expressed hopes that this kind of action might help to educate Chiang Mai residents in keeping their hometown spic and span. What's more, water trucks will be put to good use by regularly washing the city's thoroughfares.

In the last few years, cleaning Chiang Mai's streets has seemed as pointless as polishing a worn-out shoe: There has been little incentive in using water to clear the dirt when it might wash away the road itself. Shoddy workmanship has caused road surfaces to crumble and grass to grow through the cracks in paving stones, but at long last, more sustainable work has started on Tha Pae Square and the walkways around the city moat.

On this occasion, skilled workers have gone to the trouble of laying solid concrete foundations, on which they are placing good-quality material. The job will take time, but judging from completion in and around the city's focal point, it will be worth the wait.

With its newly tiled surface, royal pictures and hanging golden lanterns - billowing in the breeze - Tha Pae Square at Loy Krathong was a credit to the northern capital.

Krathong without firebombs

After a successful Royal Flora Exhibition, the Ratchaphruek, the park failed, as promised last April, to reopen for Songkran. Rumours spread that the grounds were falling into disrepair and the area would deteriorate into wasteland.

But as completion of the underpass injected some hope into Chiang Mai's future, Ratchaphruek opened its gates in time for Loy Krathong.

Some small sections are in need of repair, but in the main, the park is beautifully manicured and still in pristine condition. Entrance is free of charge and use of the shuttle bus system at Bt20 per person is optional.

Apart from the attractions that lured thousands of visitors about one year ago, Ratchaphruek also hosted an exhibition on His Majesty the King's life and achievements, which included compelling film footage and examples of his art and photography.

And for Loy Krathong, there was the chance to watch traditional and modern dance and float krathong without suffering shellshock from bombs

and fireworks. Ratchaphruek is set in a fresh and peaceful environment - an ideal place to relax - and more events for its Expo Centre are in the planning process.

Over the last decade, Chiang Mai has been losing direction, with plans for plastic theme parks, futuristic cable cars and a general neglect of things that really matter; if it wasn't for the remnants of the city wall and occasional glimpse of Doi Suthep - on a clear day - it all but lost its identity.

Does Ratchaphruek, finished underpasses, clean-up campaigns and certain renovations indicate that Chiang Mai is back on the right track? The tasks ahead are of mammoth proportions and perhaps it's too soon to tell, but recent events certainly show a glimmer of light at the end of the tunnel.