Big bikes on parade

Near Suan Dok Gate on a sunny Saturday afternoon, a motley assortment of black leatherclad bikers are milling about beside their huge motorbikes, parked neatly in parallel twin lines leading into the Northern School for the Blind. Drag Stars and Gold Wings, Vulcan Classics and Drag Machines, Road Stars and Desperado VWings, Screaming Eagles and Steeds - they are all here in this army of gleaming chrome and metallic finishes.

At first glance, it looks like a scene out of a "Mad Max" film - bikers covered in devil and skull tattoos and decked out in bandannas and badges; black leather waistcoats embossed with macabre images and club monikers like "Hell Raiser", "Triple M" and "Chrome Devil". But a few significant details set these bikers apart from your average drunk and disorderly gang. For one thing, the purpose of this rally is to raise money for the Northern School for the Blind, and to give its students a day to remember - a ride on the back of a bike to a party where a lavish dinner awaits them. The rally is meticulously organised: nothing has been left to chance. The police have been alerted and a huge white copper chopper is set to lead the convoy, red lights flashing, next to an ambulance of medics on hand to deal with any mishaps.

"Bikers are different here, compared to those in Europe," says Frenchman Pascal Chausset, a member of the Pai motorcycle club. "In the West, the Hell's Angels have a reputation as 'bad boys', but here in Thailand they do things like raise money for charity. And in Europe, you need to own a Harley to join a club, otherwise people aren't interested, they look at you funny. Here, only the very rich ride Harleys, because they cost up to Bt1 million, but it's also perfectly acceptable to ride a less expensive bike - no one looks down on you for that."

Today's rally has Harley Davidsons in all shapes and sizes, but there are also other bikes: modest Honda steeds and flamepainted Yamahas, lowriding Kawasakis and one super sleek, ash gold BMW. Among the more unique vehicles at the event are a bronze Harley Davidson with matching side car and an elongated contraption called a "Long Front End Chopper" which looks like it would be a nightmare to drive. But apparently that's the point. "That one's up on style factor," says Golf, a member of the Soul Devil bike club. "It's just like [biker] Jesse James says: the good bikes look cool and are hard to drive. It's like my shift stick," he says, tapping the unusual clutch design on his red Harley, a handactivated gear stick attached to a tightly screwed in sword blade.

There are around 25 bike clubs in northern Thailand, spread from Pai to Lampang. Most club members are male, says Golf, but there are also around 10 female bikers in Chiang Mai. The oldest club is the organiser of the day's rally, Chrome Devil, established 11 years ago and still going strong.

On that note, a convoy of motorcycles tagged with red flags rides past, driven by young women dressed in short pantsuits, wearing curly, luminous pink and green wigs - a signal that the rally is about to begin. The air is filled with resonant idling, and the blind students hang on to their allocated drivers in anticipation. The traffic behind is halted, a siren sounds, and the motorbikes take off, purring like a throng of giant cats.

Cindy Tilney and Jirat Prasertsup

 Citylife, Chiang Mai

Published on December 7, 2007