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Published on November 17, 2007

Ask designer Tipayapong Poosanaphong what he enjoys doing most and he doesn't hesitate for a moment. "Window shopping," he says enthusiastically.

"It's a hobby. I don't just take in the fashions - there's also the groceries."

But he admits that his 14 years spent pounding the Paris pavements has left him craving the aroma of freshly baked bread now that he's back in Thailand.

The former Emanuel Ungaro assistant couturier is finding some consolation in Bangkok storefronts, however. "I find the designs charming. That's why I like street wear with couture techniques," he says, adding that window shopping helps develop his observational powers and feed the creative process.

Last month, Tipayapong showcased his designs at Elle Fashion Week and opened his own boutique at Siam Centre. Today and tomorrow, he's turning the spotlight on millinery with "Emporium Gorgeous Hat at the Park", a high-tea party showcasing fashionable hats inspired by the late Princess Diana.

"Three years ago I was designing hats made of organic materials and selling them through a friend's shop in New York," he says.

"I went for hats because the fashion world already has so many fabulous accessories. Also, a hat accentuates the personality of the wearer. They can make ordinary features distinctive.

"Time and place is crucial. I remember watching my grandmother making her own hats. She would boil wool and stretch the material over a pot to get the shape."

Tipayapong acknowledges that modern women may feel awkward donning a hat but says the first rule is to be confident. "It's like any fashion item; it's very personal. You can't force someone to wear it," he says.

It took Tipayapong years to discover his true passion. Although a keen student of arts and history, he failed his university entrance examination and, after a disappointing spell with a leading hairstylist in Bangkok, was accepted by a well-known hairdressing school in Paris. He covered his expenses by cutting hair at his friends' apartments and in small Chinese-owned shops.

To extend his French visa, he signed up for fashion school - the Ecole de la Chambre Syndicate de la Couture Parisienne and Ecole Nationale Superieure des Beaux-Arts - and much to his surprise, found himself enjoying the nitty-gritty of haute couture.

"I fell in love with tailoring. I've always liked handicrafts and there's something very satisfying about creating buttonholes, seams and pockets. There are special techniques to learn and the work is very exacting. The teacher would often ask to see my fingers because it's impossible to avoid getting needle sticks."

At Emanuel Ungaro, Tipayapong specialised in last-minute tailoring for runway shows, handled alterations in consultations with private clients, and also became expert in draping, embroidery, beading, quilting and finishing.

"I was very lucky to be able to work for Ungaro. It was the opportunity of a lifetime. It taught me things I could never have learned at school," he says.

However, he admits that it's not a job for everyone and that an ego is best left behind.

"You need to be like a shadow. Patience is probably the most important quality. When I went to work, I'd leave my mouth at home. Only my brain and skills went to the office."

As an artist, he was always proud when the outfits in which he had a hand were shown on the Paris catwalks. But he admits that sometimes the price tags attached to the clothes gave him pause for thought. "I'd think how a dress could buy a house, a car or, at the very least, a meal for a whole Thai village."

After leaving Ungaro he joined Pierre et Gilles as a costume designer and photographer's assistant.

His aim today is to create refined clothes with couture techniques at affordable prices. He'd also like to come up with outfits for the physically impaired.

"I'd like to make them look beautiful and feel confident. That's a real challenge."

Kupluthai Pungkanon

 The Nation