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Published on October 27, 2007

Instead of growing old along with its ageing regular visitors, Hua Hin is peeling off the years. A popular beach resort for a century, it's still got the pony rides on the beach, evening strolls in Chatchai Market, the fresh seafood and the traditional desserts.

But now it's got a whole lot more.

King Rama VII made the place famous in the early 1920s, choosing the peaceful fishing village as the perfect place for summer getaways and eventually building a residence there, the palace called Klai Kangwon - Far From Worries.

The nobility and other wealthy Thais transformed Hua Hin and, while it's close enough for many Bangkokians to holiday there, most of the rest of the population has only known it from descriptions in popular novels like "Prisana", by Wor Nor Pramuanmark.

"Hua Hin has been a destination for upper-class people all along," says Wiboon Nimitrwanich, director of the Tourism Authority of Thailand's local office. Five million visitors made the trip last year, 80 per cent of them Thai, and they've tended to come for the same old charms - the nostalgic atmosphere, the traditional desserts, the terrific seafood and the peaceful beach.

Now, however, Hua Hin is getting hip.

The resort town of dreamy novels is getting a facelift, with ultra-modern facilities popping up everywhere for the enjoyment of the upwardly mobile.

There's a string of boutique hotels on the way to Khao Takiab, and air-conditioned shopping malls for those who can't take the heat of Chatchai Market. The cute ponies on the seashore now rear at the roar of banana boats and jet-skis.

"There had been nothing new in Hua Hin until we opened the Let's Sea Al Fresco four years ago," says Srayut Ekahitanonda, referring to the chic hotel that helped set the modern-minded trend, with its unconventional rooftop rooms and long, skinny pool.

Next came the Rock and Supatra resorts near Khao Takiab and the Putahracsa, rising from the Naeb Kehat residential zone.

Their target customers are yuppies and honeymooners, and room rates start at Bt5,000, but competition is fierce and getting fiercer, so you can always expect something new. The Putahracsa now offers a butler service.

Then there are the stylish bars and restaurants, like the Dune and Nahb Talay. Villa Market has a toehold in the heart of the town, and stores selling international brands are easing the local shops out of Chatchai's turf.

Adding more variety, spa and golf have become more and more popular choices among visitors.

Even some of the businesspeople are surprised when they arrive to assume new posts.

"I was imagining something very local and quiet," says Eugene Tamesis, the new director of marketing at the Hyatt Regency. He figured Bangkokians would want to be in the middle of nowhere when they escape the city, but here "it's condos, Starbucks, Burger Kings, McDonalds and department stores".

The reality was a pleasant surprise for him nevertheless.

"Thais are so used to comfort," says Wiboon of the Tourism Authority, "that if you don't have these conveniences for them, there's a problem."

Eight-year resident Vaughan Pope, who is the managing director of Kumar Design, finds the new Hua Hin more comfortable and convenient, but frets over the rising cost of living. Property prices, he observes, have risen 400 or 500 per cent since he came here.

Frequent visitor Maneenapa Sibunruang believes the town retains the right combination of homey and natural surroundings and modern conveniences. One example is having Index's mega-mall on the outskirts, while the friendly, low-rise Villa Market is right downtown. She appreciates being able to enjoy local food at the night market and at the same time pick up items for her kids at the department store.

Not everyone is happy, of course. Mimi Grachangnetara has been a weekend regular in Hua Hin for years, and laments that the smaller shops are disappearing. The convenience of Market Village is killing off the town's genial character, she says.

"It's as though Sukhumvit Road has been moved to Hua Hin," she says, referring to Bangkok's bustling commercial artery.

Patty Lerdwittayaskul has observed the changes while working at the international chain hotels for the past six years. She's grateful for the comparative luxuries that development has given the residents - the mall and supermarket and cinema - but says much of the charm of Hua Hin has evaporated.

People don't settle in to a table at Chatchai Market for some duck noodles anymore, Patty says, they head for the mall and grab an ice cream. They're missing out on the best aspects of the town.

"If they come here to eat at Fuji or Sizzler, they might as well have stayed in Bangkok."

It seems that for every Wiboon, pointing out how much benefit the new-look Hua Hin is reaping from a younger crowd of visitors, there is a Mimi warning that the line should be drawn now on development.

So far, for every tourist picking up the menu at a chain restaurant, there's another queuing up for some tom lued moo at a creaky old shop in the market.

And meanwhile, there is one thing about Hua Hin that seems in no danger of changing: "This town," Maneenapa points out, "has never been invaded by the ching-chab tours."

She means, disdainfully, the purveyors of low-budget, see-it-all-for-Bt100 package itineraries. Hua Hin is still way too posh for that.

Sirinya Wattanasukchai

The Nation