Romantic river cruise

Throughout time, access to water from rivers has been an important way to enjoy the fruits of agriculture. Especially in Thailand, people have long lived close to rivers, along the banks of which cultures and civilisation have flourished. Indeed, Bangkok was once known as "the Venice of the East" for its many canals.

One way to get to know riverside Thai life is to take a trip along the canals on the Manohra Song, a boat that perfectly combines luxury and a cultural excursion.

The Manohra Song is an ultra-deluxe cruiser adapted from a 20-metre-long rice barge. Artistically and lavishly converted into an elegant cruiser, the boat can accommodate up to eight passengers. With a hull of 100-year-old solid teak, the Manohra Song features four air-conditioned staterooms with queen-size beds and ensuite bathroom, as well as a galley, lounge and sundeck.

The cruiser takes off from the pier in front of the Bangkok Marriott Resort and Spa at 10am. The voyagers onboard sometimes wave goodbye to Bangkok as they are about to embark on a three-day cruise trip along canals and the historic waterway that is the Chao Phya River. The programmes, apart from relaxing and dining on excellent Thai food onboard, includes guided tours at several attractions along the strip from Bangkok to Ayutthaya.

The first stop is Wat Arun, the Temple of Dawn. Each group is shown around the temple for 30 minutes by a tour guide awaiting at the pier. Next the cruise stops at the Royal Barge Museum where you get to observe closely the restoration progress of the prestigious royal barges. The excursion of the day ends here with lunch and then traditional English afternoon tea on board. By the time the traditional Thai dinner is served, Manohra Song has already made her journey out of Bangkok and entered Pathum Thani where we moor for the night at the pier in front of Wat Bang Na.

No, the rooms are not tiny or stuffy. Nor do they have corny white and navy blue decor. Indeed the suites here aboard Manohra Song are completely different. It is well planned and elegantly designed in traditional Thai style. The dark colour of teak plus the small size of the room could make you feel a little claustrophobic but each room is planned cleverly, making the most use of the space to make the room look larger than it actually is.

Elevated is the comfortable linen bed with a small window at your feet to look out on the canal or river. Lower decks contain the bathroom with hot and cold shower and flush toilet, fully equipped with amenities and hair dryer. Three power outlets are available in-room for personal electrical devices. Lying in bed looking out to the lives being lived along the river is not a bad idea when the sun is setting, but to experience the ultimate view, go up on the deck lounge to see the beautiful evening sky. With the cruiser moving and the scenery along the river banks constantly changing, it feels as if you're sitting in an open space watching a silent film - this time with a breezy gust of wind on your face and the motion of the cruiser gently rocks you back and forth.

The cruiser offers no activities or entertainment on board, so you'll probably want to bring your own music player, laptop computer or favourite book to keep you company as the quiet night passes by. Alternatively, you could just sit in a lounge chair on the deck, have some drinks from the bar and enjoy the view of the serene water and scattered stars in the clear sky. Or, if you want to be a little more adventurous and be in closer touch with the local life, take a walk around ashore, where townspeople greet you with smiles and friendly gestures.

The second day is greeted with blessing as it starts with sangkataan (Buddhist merit making) at Wat Bang Na. The whole day will be spent in Ayutthaya, where the highlight is visiting the ruins of old temples. We are transferred by limousine from one temple to another, while a guide explains the historic background of each religious sanctuary. The city ruins are seen from a different angle with a 20-minute elephant ride. In the late afternoon, a light snack is served on board. The resourcefulness of the chef is impressive, considering the small size of his kitchen. Everything is freshly made and served professionally by the three staff on board. Vegetarian food is served upon request.

The second night, we dock in front of one of the royal temples, Wat Niwet Thammaprawat, in the Bang Pa In district of Ayutthaya. The temple itself is intriguing - a Buddhist temple in built in a European colonial style. Built in the era of King Rama V, the main monastery resembles a Catholic church and all the monk's residents are colonial-style houses in many different pastel colours. An Ayutthaya-inspired Thai meal is served aboard, but if street food is what you crave, take a cable car across the tiny canal and you'll find yourself in an open-air food market with local food vendors and tasty beef noodles.

The highlight of the last day of the trip is a trip to Bang Pa In Summer Palace, which is just a couple of minutes walk from the docking spot. You can also check out Bang Sai Village and the Bang Sai Royal Folk Arts and Crafts Centre, a half an hour drive away. The jaunt ends early mid-afternoon to prepare for the trip back to Bangkok. The cruiser sails straight to Bangkok and reaches the pier it departed from at 5pm.

We learned from one of the fellow voyagers on board that this cruise trip is listed in Patricia Schultz's "1000 Places to See Before You Die", and got reviewed in the traveller's bible "Lonely Planet". The whole trip is a great experience for foreign travellers who want to casually explore Thai culture in a relaxing, luxurious way. You spend most of the time onboard chilling and watching the river go by. But if you are Thai or have been living in the country for a while, the sightseeing programmes might seem a bit boring. But if a peaceful vacation with a little bit of discovery, great food and hearty service is what you wish for, this is the dream cruise you should not miss.

Cruises on the Manohra Song cost US$1,265 (Bt43,000) for two people (one cabin). The cost includes meals and admission to various attractions along the way. The trip takes two nights and three days starting from 10am of the first day to 5pm of the third day (55 hours). Manohra Luxury Cruises is located at 257 Charoennakorn Road, Bangkok. For details, call (02) 477 0770 or visit ManohraCruises.com.

Manta Klangboonkrong