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Published on September 19, 2007

Laura Mercier, the name behind one of Hollywood's favourite names in makeup, was in Bangkok recently to present three new looks.

More than 28 years in the business has left the renowned French makeup artist with a wealth of beauty wisdom. For her, cosmetics go more than just skin deep: they are a fascinating tool for expressing individuality - the unique features of each woman's face are what inspire her creations. "It has nothing to do with trends," Mercier says. The secret to beauty lies in how you feel about yourself. "It begins with love," she says.  

Growing up in Provence in the South of France, Mercier was drawn to art and all things creative, but it took many years for her to learn to love herself. She believed she was ugly. "Through appreciating the beauty of your own uniqueness and difference, you are able to love yourself more and more, and turn away from what's superficial," she notes.

Accordingly, Mercier says she tries to stay true to herself rather than chasing riches and success. "I'm thankful that I'm still learning and becoming a better person with each day. "I've never get bored. With each failure in my life, I've turned round to discover a new challenge. The metaphysical gives me pleasure, I think everything happens for reason. I'm still astonished."

At 17, Mercier enrolled at a painting school in Paris. Though she had planned to become a teacher, her creative side took over, and with encouragement from her mother she decided to shift her canvas to the human face. Mercier attended the Carita School for cosmetic artists, where she specialised in makeup application.

She moved to United States in 1985 to work for American Elle, freelancing at the same time on spreads for publications like Vogue, Glamour, Mademoiselle, Seventeen, Vanity Fair and Harper's Bazaar. She has also been a guiding light for Chanel, L'Oreal and Elizabeth Arden.

 In 1996, Mercier developed her own line to benefit women of all ages and skin types. She created colours based on a classic but always-current palette, rather than seasonal trends. 

Makeup consultant to Madonna for more than eight years and Mariah Carey for five, Mercier also boasts stars like Sarah Jessica Parker, Julia Roberts, Angelina Jolie, Cameron Diaz among her clients.

Today, though Mercier is still enjoying creating and developing new products in her laboratory, she admits to finding fashion frustrating.

"Fashion has a kind of energy, a speed - women in every era have enjoyed fashion. But these days they don't have time to absorb trends because they come in and out so fast. I like to step back. I'm like an old cook who takes time to cook up new flavours in my cosmetics kitchen. My goal is to create something that works. This is what I believe in, it's my responsibility."

Even the big stars, Mercier points out, are also real people. "They are insecure with all the pressure to look perfect. [Mariah] Carey loves me because I give her confidence."

Giving makeup tips for busy working women, Mercier likes to underline that speed of application isn't just down to the formula and convenience of the products. The right tools and techniques are also important. "Makeup application has to be done properly - get it right and your face will glow. But this means doing it as a routine, so you can learn what is best for your own face and see through the bombardment of images and advertising."

Mercier's trip to Asia has given her more insight into the culturally different attitudes to makeup around the world. American women tend to favour more saturated colours, while the French like a tanned healthy look, and red lipstick with - or without - mascara. She's found that Asians, on the other hand, don't feel comfortable with intense lip colour.

For successful makeup, Mercier suggests that each woman prioritise the features that bring out her uniqueness, while keeping things simple. For instance, concentrate on the eyelid and mascara for the eyelashes if you're not confident when it comes to making up eyes. Then brighten your lips with a little colour (red is in), and camouflage any uneven skin tone.

Kupluthai Pungkanon

 The Nation