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Published on September 16, 2007

Before the big hotels started hiring Western chefs, Bangkok had Chinese chefs cooking things like pork chops and cutlets. But a big part of their repertoire was Chinese dishes like noodles of all types and rice dishes topped with different and delicious meats in various sauces.

When I got old enough to dine out (and that's five decades ago now), Ar Lek's had already moved to a new location on Soi Asoke where meals were served on a tray placed on the window of your car, just like at American drive-in eateries.

I fondly remember eating in the back seat of our car, but I most vividly remember the fights I used to have with my brother over the restaurant's delicious coffee-ice cream in a cone.

You see, I ate much faster than my brother, so I always ended up bugging him for some of his.

Those were great times, but time changes. Ar Lek's kept on moving and I eventually lost touch with it.

Finally my father told me the new location and assured me they still serve the same wonderful food. I rushed over to taste all my old favourite dishes, and I was not disappointed.

Although times have changed and people's tastes in food have shifted (particularly their aversion to beef!), I was still able to persuade the cook at the Ar Lek to make me his age-old flat noodles with a ground-beef sauce, and topped with fried egg sunny side up.

This was always my No 1 favourite. The sauce has a hint of curry powder, but the prevalent flavours are still very Chinese. The fried egg makes the dish richer and creamier. You only need to add a little fish sauce and chilli peppers in vinegar to make it complete.

They still do a great rice dish topped with chicken in Chinese sauce, and again topped with fried egg. Most of the dishes are one-plate meals, cooked and served very quickly.

They have a signature egg-noodle dish called bah mee Rajawongse, which consists of egg noodles cooked al dente and topped with slices of barbecued pork and crabmeat, crispy garlic and blanched Chinese vegetables, with a green-onion garnish.

You can have it dry or with broth. Both are equally delicious.

The oyster fritters Chinese style are wonderful, and I'm sure you'll be wowed by the thin, batter-like crispy pancake that comes with the fritters.

Regular Chinese dishes like stir-fried fish and braised vegetables in seafood sauce are always good.

I really wish I had time to visit this old friend more often because it always brings back good memories.

Topping them all: the coffee ice cream is still worth fighting my brother for!