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Published on September 16, 2007

There's a new pearl on the Chao Phya River steeped in relaxed luxury, where French cuisine, a walk-in wine cellar and a classy bar add to the city's retinue of epicurean options.

Not by chance that La Grande Perle shares its name with one of those behemoth tourist boats gliding up and down the river. Both are owned by Pichit Kulkeatdech, chief executive of Grand Pearl Co Ltd.

Open for only a few weeks, La Grande Perle is handsomely laid out with indoor and riverside patio dining areas, plus an intimate stage for jazz ensembles.

Even more attractive than the venue itself is restaurant-operations manager Cherry Kulkeatdech, the boss' daughter.

"We totally renovated what was formerly the Savoy restaurant to create a breezy contemporary waterside ambience," she says. "We also had the good fortune of bringing in Paiboon Kavila as general manager from the former Auberge Dab on Ploenchit."

Emphasising wine as integral to enjoying La Grande Perle, a kick-off wine dinner last week featured one of Chile's new wineries of note, Anakena.

With 250 hectares of premium vineyards in Chile's renowned Colchagua and Cachapoal valleys and a 300,000-case, state-of-the-art winery in the Rapel Valley, Anakena has racked up a steady stream of awards and international attention.

Winemaker Gonzalo Perez and export manager Andreas Tauver were on hand to co-host the evening with their Thailand importer-distributor, Bangkok Beer and Beverages Co.

"We've developed a strong reputation in a short time at Anakena because we took a long time to purchase property ideally located for each of the varietals we produce," Perez told the four dozen guests.

His wines spoke for themselves, starting with an '06 pale straw sauvignon blanc whose abundant herbal aromas and crisp acidity paired perfectly with a mixed fish-sashimi salad.

An '05 medium-bodied chardonnay with hints of melon and pineapple was pleasant with quail consommé and mushroom ravioli.

Anakena's premium brand, Ona, has won critical acclaim and multiple international awards in only three years since its introduction.

La Grand Perle diners were served the '04 cabernet, merlot, carmenere blend with a rich, pan-fried duck liver foie gras. Soft tannins, subtle oak and spicy cinnamon-clove flavours highlighted Perez' ability to combine these varietals into a palate of smooth nuanced complexity.

Anakena single vineyard carmenere from '04 with abundant blackberry-cassis aromas and a full finish proved masterful with venison and morels.

Putting a pearl on the evening proved easy with a double chocolate mousse paired with Anakena's unctuous, late-harvest muscat-viognier dessert wine.

With an unbeatable location and professional staff combined with a well-presented and stored wine selection, La Grande Perle has got off on the right foot.

Add to that a dinner with the winemaker from one of Chile's high visibility new wineries and you're likely riding a winner.

For reservations for La Grande Perle, call (02) 237 0077. Anakena wines are available from BB&B at (02) 661 9446.