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Published on August 27, 2007

With its chic, distinctive decor, Bangkok's hip Greyhound Cafe has long been a popular spot for young urbanites to linger over delicious food, drinks and coffee before getting down to the serious business of shopping for trendy threads at the city's leading boutiques.

The fashion cafe, founded by Bhanu Inkawat, who is also the creative director, celebrates its 10th anniversary next month and is marking the occasion by introducing 30 new menus guaranteed to please the palate.

But Bhanu, who also owns Thailand's renowned fashion pack Greyhound Original (now in its 25th year), Playhound, Hound and Friends, as well as sister restaurant Another Hound by Greyhound Cafe, doesn't think of himself as a fashion designer or a chef.

"I'm a style presenter," he says.

The concept for Bhanu's clothes is minimalism with a twist. Food, he says, should be light and simple with elements of surprise.

"It's not fusion food but typical favourite dishes spiced up with unexpected ingredients.

Take his grandmother's recipe, salad nam prik pla tu (fried mackerel with shrimp paste sauce).

"She knew I was worried about fish bones so she mixed all the ingredients in one dish rather than preparing a dipping sauce," says Bhanu.

"Actually, I don't think I like cooking much. I love sampling food though. I eat out everywhere and remember the tastes I like, then try to cook it my way. That's fun. I try and find the time to cook once or twice a month."

Lasagna, usually a heavy dish, turns into a salad at Greyhound Cafe, an aromatic offering of romaine leaves, olives, tomato, pasta and parmesan cheese served with a thick tomato dressing. The surprise elements that Bhanu mentions can be found in both texture and taste.

Pomelo salad is also a new menu item and comes with roasted coconut bits, pounded dried shrimp and slivers of crispy fish, topped with a sweet lemon dressing. It's served with romaine leaves.

Bhanu admits that he didn't know much about running a restaurant before he got into the trade. "It was quite by accident," he recalls.

"There was an unoccupied space next to the Greyhound shop at the Emporium Shopping Complex. After shopping, I like going to a trendy cafe to relax with a coffee, so I put in an offer.

"A coffee shop is a good showcase for the lifestyle of urban people."

The first meal served by Greyhound Cafe was a lunch for Princess Ubolratana Rajakanya.

"That meal made Greyhound Cafe famous for what has become its all-time favourite dish, spaghetti pla khem [spaghetti with salted fish]."

As well as the taste of the food and the atmosphere, the other vital ingredient in the café's recipe for success is consistency. In that respect, Greyhound excels.

"When customers walk into a fashion shop, they want the latest collection, but in a restaurant they'll ask for the same dishes time after time - the ones  they like. They don't even look at the menu," he laughs.

"One time, we wrote a message on the waiters' apron that read 'Live dangerously, order a new menu'."

Bhanu also keeps a close watch on trends to ensure that Greyhound Cafe's decor - New York chic meets old-style Milan - still has a funky edge that stands out from the typical hip hangout.

"Cooking is a gift," he says. "It's highly individual. When tasting food, a chef should be able to tell the source of his ingredients, the gardens from which the chillies come, the exact heat required for cooking."

Bhanu places emphasis what he calls "idea-driven culture".

"Greyhound is the style that we use to present everything - clothes and food. It's simple, elegant, creative and never boring."

Kupluthai Pungkanon

The Nation