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Published on August 19, 2007

Pairing some of his native Piedmont's revered nebbiolo wines with his menu put a halo on an exceptional evening. Before savouring the dinner, here's a quick overview of this unique and often problematic grape.

Slow to ripen, often not doing so until well into October, nebbiolo is quite acidic, filled with natural tannins and reluctant to yield its complex earthy aromas without extensive ageing. While winemakers have become smarter about integrating these diverse characteristics, three to four years of ageing remains the standard before release for sale. Although the vine adapts readily to diverse climates, the hallowed tar, liquorice and spare mountain berry fruit flavours typically ascribed to quality nebbiolo come only from the Alpine foothills of Piedmont.

Known in Italy only by the names of the towns where it is produced, Barolo and Barbaresco being the leaders, nebbiolo from around Barolo tends to yield higher-alcohol, more masculine wines than those from Barbaresco. With total annual production through all of Piedmont reaching barely one million cases, these are wines that invariably command higher prices.

From Russo's opening dish of thin sliced salmon under a glass filled with real oak wood smoke, everyone in attendance knew they were in for a unique evening of sensory indulgence. For wine lovers, a real bonus was presented by Bastasiolo winery represented by export manager Davide Vacchiotti and importer-distributor Italasia.

Four 1999 Barolos from different Batasiolo vineyards offered a rare opportunity to taste firsthand the affect minerals and other components of soil, as well as sunlight exposure, plays on wines made from separate estates. 1999 was an outstanding year in Piedmont, lending even greater cache to the event.

Russo paired Batasiolo's Boscareto Barolo, which evinced notes of liquorice backed by moderate tannins, with a rich veal tongue accompanied by wasabi-based salsa. A wise choice given the closed but slightly astringent Boscareto. From Bofani vineyards, the next Barolo puckered with tannins but gradually opened up in the glass enough to hold ground with creative lasagnetta with a powerful amalgam of anchovy-enhanced courgettes and pungent castelmogno cheese.

The Cerequio vineyard Barolo had more forward berry components integrated with softer tannins, which were in total harmony with a chicken tortellini augmented with aged Parmesan cheese and sage.

A finale of succulent skewered chunks of veal braised in Barolo waltzed perfectly with Batasiolo's Corda della Briccolina and its complex earthy aromas, hints of oak and stout tannins.

Remember when looking for Piedmont's prized nebbiolos that they are most often labelled as Barolo or Barbaresco, not by the varietal name of the grape.

Rosini's next wine dinner is on September 26 so it's not too soon to reserve a seat. Call (02) 649 8888.

Batasiolo wines are available from Italasia at (02) 261 7990.