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Published on August 5, 2007

Once known for cheap bungalows, it now boasts a wealth of resorts, many of them catering to the more upmarket tourist.   I recently headed to the island to visit a resort owned by a friend.

We arrived just in time for lunch and were pleasantly surprised when our host took us to a seafood restaurant right on the water.             I immediately started to salivate           as we walked past the large tank full of live seafood.

I knew the fare would be               fresh but would its preparation           and cooking do the seafood           justice?

We sat on the floor with our legs hanging over the sea below. For once, I limited myself to just one item - spicy stir-fried grouper               (pla gao pad cha).

We started the meal with fresh Phuket lobster sashimi served with soy sauce and wasabi. The meat of the lobster was very sweet because it was so fresh. Then came poached squid salad with dressing on the side. This is a very Thai dish and the dressing was quite spicy and pungent. Personally, I was glad that the dressing was not too sweet, as I find these days that Thais are adding too much sugar to many dishes.

We chomped on the squid, which went perfectly with the beer and wine. Then came a papaya salad with raw blue crab, a favourite with everyone, but sensibly ordered in two portions - spicy and not so spicy.

The lime in the dressing, cooking the crab just so slightly, complemented the crustacean beautifully. For those who don't know it, this salad is a little like eating ceviche but much spicier.

We also indulged in three plates of steamed local shellfish, using toothpicks to dig the meat out of the shells and dip them in a very spicy sauce. Delicious! The meat was crunchy and chewy, but rendered sweet and flavourful by the sauce.

The scallops in black pepper sauce were also good, though I found the scallops slightly overcooked for my liking.

I particularly enjoyed the stir-fried squid rings in salted egg yolk sauce. This is a Chinese dish that many restaurants feature on their menus, but few do it well. Some overcook the squid, making it chewy, while at other eateries, the squid is simply not fresh enough. At Baan Ploy Samet they do it perfectly. The squid is sweet and soft, not in the least rubbery, and there is just enough of the rich, salted egg sauce covering each piece.

But the piece de resistance was yet to come and when it did, it was unforgettable.

My choice - the spicy stir-fry grouper - was superb. The fish was fresh, the meat sweet and delicate and the sauce added just the right amount of spiciness.

If you are heading to Koh Samet, make it a point to stop by at Baan Ploy Samet. All the dishes are worth trying, but leave room for that spicy stir-fry.