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Published on July 24, 2007

Former Prime Minister MR Kukrit Pramoj's ancient wooden house has been in the news recently, the subject of a conflict between Kukrit's son, ML Rongrit, and the 80th Kukrit Foundation, which has been running the museum for the last seven years.

The foundation had been planning to celebrate the 100th anniversary of Kukrit's birth in 2011 by building a library and conference hall. After failing to reach a long-term lease agreement with ML Rongrit, the foundation pulled out.

Fortunately, closure has been avoided and the beautiful old house, under the management of MR Kukrit's descendants, is once again open every weekend.

It's hard to imagine what would have happened had Kukrit's family and the foundation been unable to reach an amicable settlement.

Back in late 1999, the former PM's friends, students and descendants collaborated to restore the wooden house to its former glory. It re-opened under the official name MR Kukrit's Heritage Home in 2001.

Quite a few Thai traditional houses exist, not as romantic ruins but as living entities. When Kukrit was alive, his house was full of life. Indeed, many papers in those days reported that all roads led to his house in Soi Suan Phlu.

It was there that he entertained prominent figures from politics and high society, as well as hosted lively discussions on academic issues, art and culture. It was a private residence, yet rarely private because it was where Kukrit greeted guests from dusk till dawn.

Until the last eight years of his life, the house remained a meeting place for his friends and students.

During the official opening, Rongrit said his father had come to him in a dream, pointing to his neglected house and telling his son he'd find the money to restore it himself.

The following day, Rongrit was approached by the fledging Kukrit 80 Foundation and set about fulfilling his father's dream.

Care was taken to retain the colourful nature of the house rather than transform it into a staid museum. The restoration work, covered by the foundation, cost Bt6 million and the Fine Arts Department gave the house national heritage status.

The house has stood in the heart of Phra Pinit lane, just off Soi Suan Phlu on Sathorn Tai Road for 48 years.

Kukrit bought the two-acre plot in 1942 in this betel palm neighbourhood, which give the soi its name, paying Bt7 per square wah.

Ten years later, he spotted a ramshackle Thai house in Sao Ching Cha that had been removed by the local municipality and decided to buy it, employing builders from Phak Hai district in Ayutthaya province to reassemble the structure in Soi Suan Phlu in 1960.

Although Kukrit's compound, which features five teak houses of different ages and a couple of other, newer buildings, is not the most authentic of Thai estates in the kingdom, it epitomises this great man's gift for marrying tradition style with modern comfort.

Since opening to the public seven years ago, well-trained volunteer students from Thammasat University have tirelessly acted as tour guides.

Entering the main entrance, visitors can see the function hall on the right, designed as a throne hall with a platform in the middle used for classical khon performances.

Colourful khon masks are displayed on shelves, while antique and newly made bookcases hold the three Buddhist canons as well as decorative items from Vietnam and China. Kukrit's classic titles are showcased on the other side of the pavilion.

Preserved just as it was during his lifetime, the hall represents the Thai way of life spiced with other exotic cultures.

Beyond the pavilion, a typically Thai garden leads to the main dwelling, its pathways dotted with Khmer-style figures and a cooling fountain in the centre. The main residence consists of five elevated houses with the open area beneath the buildings serving as a multipurpose space, a shelter from rain and sun.

The teak buildings, all antique Thai structures, are connected by a large open veranda, which overlooks the serene garden to the rear.

Each room in the house is filled with artefacts and books collected by the owner. Additions to the original Thai house include air conditioning, a modern bathroom and a lift, which was installed when Kukrit became too frail to climb the stairs.

The first to be built was the reception house where a wooden bed belonging to King Rama II is placed together with cabinets displaying bowls for betel nuts and desserts popular during that era. To the left of the reception room are a living area and the shrine room.

Kukrit's bedroom is next to the open veranda, and the library is exactly opposite. The library is filled with books Kukrit used during his days at Queen's College, Oxford University. A number of momentous meetings are believed to have been held in this room. The rear garden has a big pond and a music pavilion where many students come to study traditional Thai instruments at the weekends.

Kukrit's house is not so much a museum, but a home that pays tribute to the memories of this great man.

Surrounded by skyscrapers, the former prime minister's home provides a rare peaceful haven in this bustling city.

MR Kukrit Heritage Home is at 19 Soi Phra Pinit, South Sathorn Road (BTS Chong Nonsi). It is open on weekends and national holidays. Admission is Bt50. Call (02) 286 8185.

Vipasai Niyambha

The Nation