• 
• 

There were khao gaeng shops everywhere. Not only did they serve their namesake, but also such staples as stir-fried meats with garlic and chilli and Thai style fried eggs served with fish sauce and chopped chilli peppers, all sold with a plate of rice.

People from all walks of life had khao gaeng for breakfast and lunch and many took some home in plastic bags for dinner. You can still see these shops near old-style markets, where taxi drivers often stop to have a morning curry fix before going to work.

In recent years, the number of khao gaeng shops has diminished greatly because the new generation of Thais finds them hot and very unfashionable! Fortunately, you will still find a few outside Bangkok and they are still flourishing down south. Southerners still find this way of eating very appealing, which is no surprise as the cooking is a treat.

For many years, it was traditional in the South to have khao gaeng available at home in case guests came to visit. Even today, the first thing a host asks if you drop in is "have you eaten?"

Travel anywhere in the South and you will notice a khao gaeng shop. The locals are always happy to recommend their favourites.

So it was a wonderful surprise when a colleague took me for lunch at a khao gaeng place near Buddha Mondhol, just outside Bangkok.

Raan Nong Grace serves delicious khao gaeng, all based on recipes from the South, including the curry paste and ingredients that are hard to find in Bangkok.

A southern-style khao gaeng should be served with nam prik (shrimp paste dip) and a basket full of fresh vegetable and cha-om (acacia leaf) fried in egg batter.

The famous southern sour curry is also available and comes with Thai anchovies made from catfish. What heaven! Sitting by the roadside eating a wonderful lunch without the trappings of air-conditioning took me back to my youth, to a time when life was far less complicated and hyped up.

Another delicious dish, and one I am sure plenty of Southerners order, is the pungent gaeng tai pla (fish belly curry).

Raan Nong Grace also offers stir-fry dishes like kua gling (dry stir-fried pork with herbs and chilli). This is a very fiery dish and should be eaten with cucumber or vegetables to cool down the palate.  The spicy stir-fried catfish is not to be missed but for those who prefer something mild, I suggest the stir-fried pork with lemongrass, crispy fried pork belly, and the braised pork leg in sour leafy broth.

But for true Thai tastes, sample the hot and exotic fare at Nong Grace.  As you arrive at the stall, stop by the counter where they have all the main dishes ready for you to choose from.

Some customers ask for a plate of rice and choose only two dishes. Being greedy, I selected five or six dishes served on small plates to be eaten with rice at the table.

The nam prik is free and comes with the meal even if you don't ask for it, in true southern-khao gaeng-shop tradition.

The food is great and the price is definitely right. Nong Grace offers an adventure into the eating culture of Thais and is well worth the journey outside Bangkok.