Shifting sands

Drifting desert dunes and the sparkle of the Arabian Gulf make Qatar a fascinating destination. It's a small country, just 11,437 square kilometres, and sits on a peninsular that juts from the Arabian mainland.

Its neighbours are Saudi Arabia, Kuwait, Bahrain, the United Arab Emirates and Oman. The area is very flat, consisting mainly of scrubby desert terrain.

Looking out of the plane's window just before landing, the contrast of the sea against the desert landscape is astonishing. The Arabian Gulf surrounds most of the country and offers several natural harbours.

Qatar became independent in 1971 after years of rule by the Portuguese, the Ottomans and the British. In the past, life here was harsh and simple, but the 700-kilometre coastline offered rich harvests for fishermen while the region's great oyster beds produced some of the world's finest pearls. Qatar has plenty of oil and natural gas reserves, which now provide most of its income and wealth.

Today, the capital of Doha is rapidly developing and Qatar's modern influence is growing. In 1999, municipal elections allowed both men and women to vote and stand as candidates - something never before seen in an Arab nation. There is relative media freedom, and the country is home to the first independent Arab news channel, Al-Jazeera. Health and educational services are advancing, and Qatar is also positioning itself as a mediator in regional and international disputes and as a venue for international conferences. The country has already hosted the World Trade Organisation Economic Conference, the Islamic Summit Conference and the recent 15th Asian Games.

More than half the population in Qatar is made up of foreign nationals, creating an alluring blend of cultures and attitudes and an atmosphere in which English is widely spoken. Nevertheless, the divisions among the people are obvious - the Qataris are the owners, the Westerners are the executives and the majority of Asians (from South and Southeast Asia) form the workforce in the service and construction industries.

In Doha, construction is everywhere. The planned US$500-million (Bt18-billion) "Entertainment City", designed to be a mix of Arab hospitality and contemporary leisure, will add momentum to the tourism industry and bring the city's number of hotel rooms to 15,000 by 2009. The cost of living, though, is high, especially where accommodation and food are concerned. But there are both traditional and international menus available around the city.

The country's many attractions are still very rich in Arab tradition. Even inside modern buildings you will find spectacular arched facades, beautifully painted wooden ceilings and small windows. The ancient often blends harmoniously with the modern. Marble walls and floors and hand-woven carpets add finishing touches to the traditional, yet comfortable interiors.

Doha is a good town for walking, especially in "winter" when the temperature ranges between 20 and 30 degrees Celsius. You can stroll comfortably along the seven-kilometre Corniche - an exquisite palm-lined promenade that offers deep-blue seascapes on the one side and modern Islam-inspired buildings on the other.

Behind the Corniche is the fascinating old Souk Waqif market. It dates back to ancient times, when Doha was just a small village, and was known as the "Standing Market" because the sea often flowed into the area, forcing the merchants to be on their feet all day. Here, the visitor can find dates and rice, dairy products including yoghurt known as yigt, craft shops, tailors, weavers and carpenters. You can also shop for spices, Arabic perfume, silverware, gold and gems. There's even a falcon market for aficionados of these wonderful hunting birds.

The vendors here treat visitors like guests and it's not unusual to be invited in for a cup of Arabic tea or coffee.

Souk Waqif had almost fallen into ruin, but was restoration was ordered just in time by His Highness Sheikh Hamad bin Khaliga Al Thani. If you're lucky, you might even see His Highness strolling through the alleyways. Locals say he likes to visit the souk, as it is a model of traditional Qatari life.

The souk's restoration plans involved replacing metal roofs with ones made of dangeal wood and bamboo covered with reed matting, along with a layer of clay and straw to hold them together. The layer of clay also provides insulation, protecting the marketgoers from the scorching heat. Qatari architecture has always been characterised by its simplicity - it's the size of a building reflects the wealth of its owner.

South of Doha, there's Al Wakrah - a busy fishing port and market town. Many fishermen here still prefer their traditional vessels to the new designs.

One activity that travellers shouldn't miss is "dune-bashing" in a four-wheel drive at the Inland Sea - the Khor al Adaid. This is a thrilling adventure - climbing, slipping and sliding down the massive sandbanks - in the hands of professional drivers.

The scenery is magnificent, especially at sunset, though when it gets dark the temperatures can get a little chilly. Camel riding is, of course, obligatory, and you may also choose to spend a magical night on a desert safari. But always check the weather, as you don't want to get caught in a sandstorm.

Although tourism is relatively new to Qatar, the people know how to indulge their guests. The five-star spa industry is booming, with many special treatment packages offered by professional staff from Bali, India or Thailand. And the spa experience now extends beyond the hotel arena: for example, at the Qatar Airways Premium Terminal, First- and Business-Class passengers - of which I was lucky enough to be one - can freshen up before their flight with spa treatments, a sauna, a Jacuzzi and fine dining.

Ultimately, a trip to Qatar will be both memorable and enlightening - especially for those who only see the Middle East as being plagued by violence. Here, a peaceful and traditional Arabic civilisation is still very much in evidence.

The writer travelled as a guest of Qatar Airways.

Kupluthai Pungkanon

The Nation